picture pages

My new favorite hangout

2008-08-31T06:16:00.000-07:00

Last Saturday started at the bar whose name I cannot recall (across from James Cook. Anyone? Anyone?), was followed up (rather unexpectedly) by a bagpipe march through the streets of Old Town...

And then onto the legendary B Kara OK for a night of Becherovka, tunes and good times.

NYC

2008-08-31T05:59:00.000-07:00

You would hardly know it from these photos, but I spent last week in NYC for work. Below, all the photos I had time to take:

Ashley and I posing awkwardly in front of a Prague poster around NYU

Screen shot from the 7th (or 8th?) win. Lost track.

David and Scott, our fabulous dinner companions...

Ash and I

Mimi the mannequin, the star of the tradeshow display

Prague revisted

2008-08-31T05:31:00.000-07:00

It's mind-boggling that we've passed the one-year mark. What's more, there's just a month to go---so I'm trying to rapidly cross as many destinations off the list, beginning with places just a few tram stops away. The below pictures were taken from the tower at St. Nicholas Cathedral (in Mala Strana) and in Wallenstein Gardens. *click on each picture for a much better view*

Summertime and the living is easy

2008-08-31T05:18:00.000-07:00

Location: Various

Drinking a beer by the river on a boat/bar in Ljubljana on a perfect summer afternoon = happiness

Cheers

Pre outdoor film and becoming woozy on red wine

Above and below: beach at Depo Hostivar

And back to Trieste...

2008-07-26T02:53:00.001-07:00

We returned--just for a night (to get our flight the next morning)---just in time for sunset at the beach. A comedy of errors ensued after we apparently missed the cut-off time (11 p.m.) for all food in the city. But the sunset was lovely, so I'll just leave it at that.

The main square, all lit up

After our satisfying meal of.... two pieces of bread. No hard feelings, Trieste.

Metelkova mesto

2008-07-26T02:28:00.001-07:00

Formerly the site of military barracks in Ljubljana, it's now an insanely colorful artists colony---rife with picture-taking opportunities. Read more about it here:

http://events.nytimes.com/2008/02/03/travel/03next.html

In the meantime, some pictures...

Below: Not in Metelkova... just some fun street art I snapped. (The last one, in case your vision is like mine, reads "Where is Bansky when you need him?") Interestingly, while we were in Slovenia, this article ran:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1034538/Graffiti-artist
-Banksy-unmasked---public-schoolboy-middle-class-suburbia.html

Onward to Ljubljana

2008-07-26T02:04:00.000-07:00

Ljubljana, Slovenia has a lot of style and quirky charm. I'm definitely a fan of...

The beautiful city center

That the dragons (flanking one of the city's bridges) are the unofficial mascots

The interesting art installations, including this one---in which it rained down on one little circle in the city center. (The sign read's 'The area with Ljubljana's own weather.')

Style abounding... even in the Mod-style phone booths

Salsa dancing in public places

The fascination with puppets (much like Prague's own affinity for them)

The architecture

The fabulous Tivoli park---complete with its own art museum

The statues, sculptures and the like---everywhere. This was one of the trippiest church doors I've ever encountered. Beautiful.

Italy's Forgotton City

2008-07-26T01:55:00.000-07:00

Poor little Trieste, always in the shadow of Venice. We flew there and like many, treated it purely as a gateway to somewhere else (usually that somewhere else is Slovenia or Croatia or yes, Venice). But the city definitely had its charms, including this man...

I always envied the Sartorialist. This gentleman, with his perfect Italian espresso, newspaper and stylish glasses, was completely worthy.

Along the little canal on a beautiful morning. Shortly after, we discovered Buffet Rudi--perhaps Pat's new favorite foodie experience in Europe--a Bavarian-style bar with some Italian touches (read: sausage with a side of gnocchi). Since the area was part of the Austo-Hungarian empire, this was somewhat expected--and anticipated.

One of Trieste's claims to fame is that James Joyce lived and wrote here for several years. Here, Pat strikes a pose with the literary legend.

More scenes from the city...

Photo for Brian

2008-07-13T15:01:00.000-07:00

This is for you, bro....

Daily Photo

2008-07-13T11:36:00.001-07:00

New tactic: I'm going to begin posting just one of my photos each day.

Radiohead Fun

2008-07-12T08:15:00.000-07:00

Just got back from a whirlwind visit to Berlin:

Johnny and Thom do their thing.

Pat posing pre-show

The crowd: abstract

Pretty colors!

The rain didn't keep anyone away

As the night wore on...

Loving the show and not nearly as bored as I look..

Welcome to Karlovy Vary

2008-07-12T01:35:00.000-07:00

Welcome to Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic, home to natural hot springs and the KV Film Fest: our reason for visiting this strange and beautiful place.

Colorful buildings along the winding river

The glorious pool at the 70s-style Hotel Thermal, HQ of the festival

A spectacular church

Beneath this = curative hot springs!

More of the gingerbread house-like cityscape

Stairway, evening, Aero bar

Just like the Oscars!

This is where Bob DeNiro made his appearance

The elegant Grandhotel Pupp---where all the celebrities stayed (and where we couldn't even get a drink).

Beer Wellness Land

2008-07-12T01:28:00.001-07:00

This is not a joke.

Pat was on assignment, reporting on the curative effects of soaking in a beer at the Real Beer Spa in Chodova Plana. Here was our introduction to the magical place...

Karlovy Vary: Incredibly Random

2008-07-12T00:43:00.000-07:00

Found this bird in the small town of Chodova Plana (aka Beer Wellness Land). Oddly, it wasn't the strangest thing I saw that day. But it was a very strange day.

Pat waits for the train that never did come.

Karlovy Vary: Close Up

2008-07-12T00:34:00.000-07:00

Film fest posters along the steaming, sulfuric river

Fascinating architectural detail

On the Vltava

2008-06-29T12:56:00.001-07:00

It was necessary to get out of the house yesterday (lethargy had set in big time), so what else to do but rent a rowboat and cruise along the river?

And to think, Cobrasnake was in Prague just a few weeks ago...

Saturday, pt. 2

2008-06-29T12:20:00.001-07:00

Moving onto the blurry, technicolor portion of the evening. 16 of us squeezed into a tiny room at the legendary Be Kara Ok (yes, that is really the name).

Not related

Pulp's 'Common People'

Roughly around the time where we all belted Queen's "We Are the Champions."

High five for the birthday boy

Saturday night: Pt. 1

2008-06-29T12:13:00.001-07:00

A big group gathered at Riegrovy Sady's beer garden to celebrate Ross' birthday.

The cute couple, Sarah and Ross

Sarah, quite dapper, posing with pipe

Panormo Beach

2008-06-28T11:43:00.001-07:00

After an eventful week, it was tough to get our act together for the last day. We contemplated renting four-wheelers (probably less dangerous and easier to maneuver than scooters) but were too late. C'est la vie; we hopped on a bus to Panormo, a tiny beach town east of Rethymno.

The beach: small, but it did the trick

Church above the town

Cats at restaurants: a recurring theme in Crete.

Couldn't get enough of the bougainvillea...

Waiting at the bus stop... the wrong one, I might add.

Best. Meal. Ever.

2008-06-28T11:21:00.000-07:00

Well for now, at least.

It was at Agreco, a traditional Cretan farm that produces all of its organic food (pressed olive oil, fresh feta, you get the idea) on the premises. We feasted on everything from stuffed flowers to quail, lamb and Greek yogurt, candied fruits and pastries.

The farm's traditional church

Olive press

Christos, the owner's son, befriending a goat

First course

Rethymno, Siesta time

2008-06-28T10:32:00.001-07:00

It's interesting that there isn't a single person in these photos (the town is asleep--everything closed--from about 2 to 6 p.m.). So we spent this particular outing to Rethymno's Old Town just strolling, taking pictures.

Great street art (that I kind of want to frame).

Typical trellised alley

The heat was unbearable, so we ducked into Figaro, a cool cafe (and one of the few open) that seemed to occupy the space of a converted greenhouse.

From a Greek magazine, which unfortunately, we couldn't read

More street scenes

Not my favorite scooter (that was a mint-green Vespa, of course), but still quite quaint--the word I most overused while strolling the city.

By the Libyan Sea

2008-06-28T09:40:00.001-07:00

At the end of the 16 km hike, we were deposited in this wonderful oasis of tiny tavernas and plenty of the requesite bougainvillea spilling from rooftops.

This where my love of the famous Nescafe frappe was solidified. Best invention ever--foamy cold coffee, equal parts sweet and strong.

With about three hours to kill (we finished the "6-hour" hike in 4), we spent some time on the pebbly beach.

Views from the ferry ride

Fairly typical church--except this one was completely isolated. Click for a more detailed view.

Small village called Loutro. Every building was white and blue, but I love the way some slight tweaks to the photo makes it look like a faded, vintage photograph.

Carved, windy road leading home

Not the first and not the last parade of roadside goats we saw on this trip

Samaria Gorge

2008-06-28T06:07:00.001-07:00

Nothing says honeymoon like "one of Europe's largest gorges." We spent a day hiking through Samaria Gorge, the highlight of a massive national park and nature reserve. After a brisk, early morning bus ride through some perilous mountain roads, we arrived at the top of the gorge, about 1200 meters elevation, and hiked down twisted paths and what looked like a rocky riverbed. There was a small farm village at the park exit, and then a short walk to a lovely pebble beach and a few small tavernas. We had to take a ferry from Agia Roumelli to catch our bus back to the resort.

Here are a couple shots from the top of the park. The nearby mountains in the first photo are known as the White Mountains.

These hills are supposedly home to many "kri kri," wild brown goats that roam throughout the park.

The trail was very steep and crowded at the beginning.

Small piles of stones, arranged by previous hikers, were stacked up all over the park.

The landscape was very barren and reminded us of the Southwest.

The gorge was filled with exposed, craggy rocks and a small, bubbling creek, traversed with small, makeshift wooden footbridges. Towards the bottom, there is an area called Iron Gates where the two sides of the gorge are just four meters apart.

This mysterious house was built into the cliff face. Supposedly, Cretan independence fighters used the valley as a hiding spot.

About four hours later, we reached the bottom.

Ruins of an old village that was cleared away in the '60s to make way for the park.

A deadringer for Rick Rubin was working at the park entrance. When we passed by, a man with a donkey carrying some straw was entering the gorge.

A small church in the valley below the gorge...

And it's accompanying graveyard.

Chania

2008-06-28T04:49:00.001-07:00

We took a day trip to Chania, on the island's West side, for a change of pace. Below: a few of our favorite shots from the day of strolling the beautifully crumbling city and its great Venetian architecture, vibrant colors and perfect water.

Sunset back in Rethymno

On to Rethymno...

2008-06-28T04:21:00.000-07:00

Day 2

The drive from Heraklion to Rethymno (Crete's version of PCH) was beautiful.

Pat, mid flip.

The final product: prawns with olives (naturally), artichokes, capers...delish.

Our first big day trip was to Preveli beach on the south coast. We took a coach bus, which dropped us off seemingly in the middle of nowhere: rough, arid, almost Biblically inspired surroundings with the sound of goats' bells in the distance.

But a 10-minute walk lead us to this path overlooking the sea and craggy coast

Sublime

We walked up the long road to the monastery (below) and couldn't help but notice this very curious statue.

Later that night, exhausted and sunburnt (though not nearly as badly as our new friend, Petr) we chatted with a few Czechs watching the Euro cup game (at an Irish bar. On Crete. Indeed not what we expected.) We made plans to meet up with him and his wife Dana, though I think this encounter should stay on the island.

First stop: Heraklion

2008-06-27T09:28:00.000-07:00

Day 1
And now presenting...a very edited-down version of the 400 photos we took on Crete. All the photos are large and high-res--so click on them for a much better view.

Our week in Greece started in Heraklion, the largest city in Crete. Here's the view from the rooftop bar at our hotel, Lato.

The first of many amazing meals in Greece.

Our room had a great balcony with a view of the Mediterranean. Notice the small bottle of raki, a very potent Cretan spirit similar to grappa. Nearly every meal ended with a few complimentary shots.

A rarity on the blog -- a photo of both of us.

On Saturday afternoon, we took a bus to Knossos, the incredible Minoan ruins in the suburbs of Heraklion.

Crete was filled with small churches, decorated in ornate murals and filled with the scent of burning candles. The simple, brightly-colored stained glass in many of the churches stood out in the afternoon sun.

Bits and bobs

2008-06-27T09:05:00.000-07:00

I took the camera out one Saturday to capture some of Prague's lesser-known sights (and have also included below some completely random images that don't really have a place elsewhere).

I have always found the hospital complex on Apolinarska very mysterious--with imposing gates and a Charlie and the Chocolate Factory feel ("No one ever goes in, no one ever goes out.") Strangely, every time I traverse the area it seems to be completely devoid of people--just large old buildings surrounded by iron gates.

Evening view from our balcony--looking at the building across the street

Around the block--above and below

Statue in the Klementium courtyard

Vintage yellow dress I considered buying

I told you it was a random selection: Stefaan tackling the XXXL Long Island iced tea at The Pumpkin.

Just Because

2008-06-27T08:57:00.000-07:00

Needs no introduction. (However, if you would like to find this particular brand of vodka, head to the deli in the Prague airport.)

Anatomy of a weekend

2008-06-02T12:58:00.000-07:00

You know, just another beautiful weekend in Prague...

With many beer-soaked hours logged at the Riegrovy Sady garden

Delicious two-hour brunch with the girls (there they are avoiding the camera)

A stop at my favorite place--the Klementium flea market (I'm becoming a regular), where we each found something to take home (for moi: a 10-crown vintage ring with a bird on it and a gorgeous turquoise brooch).

Hanging out on a blanket at Letna with Sarah, Ashley and friends. And wine. What could be better?

The rain, which came approximately 15 minutes after the above picture was taken, was torrential--so Ashley and I were stuck at the Metro station for awhile. And what else to do other than take pictures of the rain? Obvi.

The post-storm sky later that evening (OK, just slightly enhanced) on my way to 'say goodbye to Ashley' part 2. (Stages were essential.)

Here she is eating her last slice of Medovnik at her beloved Dobra Trafika. (This would be a marvelous opportunity to list my top 5 Ashley-isms, but I'll save us both the embarrassment.) After scintillating conversation about Haribo, Shamrock Shakes and other highly important topics, we bid adieu.

Sniff. Sniff.

Only in the Czech Republic..

2008-06-01T23:50:00.000-07:00

...would a kids fair feature an activity like this. Pat was mesmerized, needless to say.

Perfect Saturday

2008-05-25T22:53:00.000-07:00

It started here:

Karlstejn Castle, about 45 minutes outside of Prague

Lead us here:

Along a path labeled 8 km hike (another source I consulted said it was 12 km)--where we found this little treehouse overlooking a wide, green valley. Yes, I climbed it (of course) while Pat nervously watched on.

Pat later had to prove his zest for adventure by balancing on this log. (I dared him.)

Reaching the end of the path, we emerged from the woods to find we were in a completely different village. After beers, some dinner and some fresh 'holy' water from a Monastery river, we wandered a bit around the charming town.

And found this spectacular church

And this even more spectacular dog

Notwithstanding the rest of the afternoon (aimlessly around Beroun trying to find the train station....getting on the wrong train... oh, and my embarrassing fall earlier on the slippery path), it was really the perfect Saturday.

Just Because

2008-05-25T22:46:00.000-07:00

Foosball is such a part of our regular social outings (being rather popular at bars here in Prague), I figured it deserved a post.

Ah, Stromovka

2008-05-12T09:54:00.000-07:00

There are tons of great parks in Prague--but this one, oddly, was kept hidden from me until May. Seriously, where has this place been all my life? A quick Google search turned up that it was a royal hunting park back in 1268 (belonging to the Czech king Premysl Otakar II). Hmm.

And now a few photos to illustrate its grandness:

green, manicured bliss...

the start of sunbathing season...

reflections...

kids young...

...and old

Rachel and Pat marvel at this tunnel..

Gratuitous Pat 'caught-off-guard' shot on the way home, after a lovely day at lovely Stromovka

Final resting place

2008-05-12T09:25:00.000-07:00

Olsanske hrbitovy (cemetery) directly faces my office, all 150 acres of it. And yet, I never set foot inside it until a few weeks ago. Kafka is buried there, among 112,000 others. Below: a few of my snapshots.

The Party Tram

2008-05-04T02:15:00.000-07:00

It's a pretty lame excuse for not writing more, but we've had a lot of visitors and trips and obligations lately. Woefully behind on our 'writing,' this blog may now more appropriately be captioned as just 'pictures' from Prague.

The images below, however, may require more explanation. Pat, Kyle, myself--and a handful of other friends-boarded Tramix, a party tram, last Wednesday for a 2 1/2-hour strobe-light- and Red-bull-soaked ride around the city. It felt a bit like college, just on a moving vehicle.

Visa (application): It's everywhere you want to be

2008-05-04T01:38:00.000-07:00

I had an appointment at the Czech Embassy in Berlin to apply for my Visa (several months behind schedule, but alas..), so I decided to make a solo weekend of it: walk virtually everywhere (ok, I barely made it past the center; the city is enormous), snap tons of pictures, take advantage of the superior shopping, eat sausage.

Below are some of my favorite pics from a beautiful weekend.

Where East met West...Tine was there

The Holocaust Memorial is a open space filled with 2,700 concrete slabs.

There was a street fair near the Brandenburg Gate. Below--kids trying to sneak a peek of the concert, flying kids, hot dogs and three sweet old ladies walking around Tiergarten.

24 hours in Berlin

2008-05-04T01:19:00.001-07:00

It may have been closer to 36 hours, I'm not sure. But it was short.

Though I didn't try currywurst, I did make it to many of the key sights in Berlin. The weather was perfect. Families with grills flooded Tiergarten. Without a schedule, I wandered to:

1) Checkpoint Charlie

2) Tiergarten

3) Back to my hostel

Troja

2008-05-04T00:36:00.001-07:00

I don't remember whose idea it was to spend a Saturday at the Zoo, but the idea took shape and was then squashed by what seemed like a month of consecutive rainy Saturdays. Finally, we found the perfect afternoon and ventured to the neighborhood of Troja to see the animals.

This polar bear demonstrated some really disturbing head-banging behavior. (This was a rare moment of solitude.)

Pat on the chairlift. Me (no seat belt) trying to take the picture and not fall out.

The main draw: the ape cave.

A little girl had a secret pact with this elephant and was actually feeding it under this door.

The flamingos' fascinating clique behavior was the highlight of the visit.

We found a great cafe with a little outdoor grill and lots of direct sunlight.

Troja Chateau

The bus home was overcrowded--so we had to walk. Fortunately, we found some interesting things on the way.

Well Said

2008-05-04T00:27:00.001-07:00

This street art pretty much sums it up.

Muse

2008-05-04T00:11:00.001-07:00

For some reason I absolutely can't be content to just read or listen to my ipod on a train trip. I will stare out the window, I will pace. I will take 500 pictures of Pat as he's calmly trying to read/nap.

He makes an excellent model. And will probably hate me for this post.

Coming back alive

Pat's best Jack Torrance

Munich, or Bohemia's Sexyland

2008-04-21T23:37:00.000-07:00

Bookended by two six-hour train rides, we barely spent a full 24 hours in Munich. But we did manage to see and do a lot, including taking this great photo of Mark, sure to be discussed in a Borat-like voice.

Below, a selection of shots at or near the Altes Rathaus.

Now, a bit of Munich culture.

We spent a rainy day at the immense and amazing Nymphenburg Palace, where we were introduced to the craziness of King Ludwig. Below is a photo of one of his 50 or so carriages, a slightly pimped ride. The palace also contained a room filled with a series of paintings Ludwig commissioned of beautiful women -- he basically picked women off the street and made them post for photos. Ah, the benefits of royalty.

We ended the night at the Hofbrauhaus. I think this photo series below tells the story pretty well.

Mark Sisson in Europe

2008-04-21T23:19:00.001-07:00

Mark Sisson on the train to Munich, before drinking a metric ton of beer at the Hofbrauhaus.

Christine's other photos from the train trip

Sissons Come To Prague

2008-04-21T23:05:00.000-07:00

It wasn't quite the Griswald-esque visit we expected. (Though, to be fair, the Griswalds never made it past the Iron Curtain to Prague.)

Below are some photos from one day spent walking around Old Town square (including a rooftop 'stopover' drink at U Prince Hotel for what Mark would call "crocktails.")

Guest Book

2008-04-20T10:10:00.001-07:00

Our apartment turned into a bit of a youth hostel for the months of March-May. Kidding aside, it was great to see all our friends and family here in Prague.

First stop on the overview tour of Prague with Kate and Eric: Lennon Wall.

At the Blind Eye, just before things "got crazy" (but after I spilled beer all over my jacket).

Dinner at Aromi

Easter brunch at The Globe

Kate and Eric take part in one of the local customs (the Easter whipping).

The origin of our current foosball obsession

Obligatory panoramic shot at Letna

Sisters. Aw..

Respite in Krumlov

2008-03-02T04:10:00.000-08:00

My dear husband got me a truly amazing birthday gift in early January: a weekend alone--just for me--to head off to the country and do some writing (kind of like what I--and he--never really get to on this blog). So this past weekend I boarded a bus to Cesky Krumlov. Without getting too poetic (read: over-dramatic) here, I will say that it was an amazing respite. I read important literature, took pictures, congregated with globe-trotting Aussies in my hostel, ate two-hour leisurely meals for one in empty cafes and walked. A lot. Oh, and I did get around to doing some writing, too.

My new home away from home, Krumlov House. I will definitely be back.

My spacious attic room, beneath a gabled room--and the view from my tiny window.

It was quite the ideal place to do some writing. One could sit here and easily spend hours just musing on the sky's colors (as I may have done).

The city was, as I had anticipated, quite picturesque.

Interesting aesthetic quirks I found

The highlight of Krumlov is the castle, which is surrounded by a moat inhabited by none other than...

On my second night, I met up with the other guests at Krumlov House to watch this gypsy band.

Still Life

2008-03-02T03:54:00.000-08:00

On my morning walk through Cesky Krumlov (a walk that lead me in frustrating circles, constantly ending up at the same destinations--inexplicably lost at times in a town center with a mere five streets), I battled the wind and rain to take a few photos. Below are some of my favorites.

Pure February

Another setting that time seemed to have forgotton

Paree

2008-02-21T09:47:00.000-08:00

Trying to make up for a bit of lost time in Paris due to a delayed flight, we spent Valentine's weekend in Montmartre. Our travel misadventures didn't end -- we were fined on the way home for having the wrong type of metro ticket -- but it was still a great weekend.

Pat mangles raw mussels at La Mascotte in Montmartre

Jardin du Luxembourg on a beautiful day

Another view of the park, and the lazy socialists who inhabit it (kidding).

Pat lines up for the world's best falafel, according to the charismatic owner.

Christine posing on the Seine -- she was soon surrounded by about thirty art students with easels.

Notre Dame

One of about a dozen amazing open-air markets we saw on Sunday, which reminded me a bit of Stanley's back home. Beat this, Whole Foods.

This, however, did not remind me of Red Lobster.

Christine captures an elusive picture of Euro-Pat, about to order a pastis and crack open a book on existentalism.

Another European sighting of Tine, this time at a Lebanese restaurant.

Yes, this is from the graveyard where Jim Morrison is buried. Man, I would hate to spend eternity buried next to a self-destructive rock star and get trampled by tourists.

Crumbled gravestones

The Les Puces de Saint-Ouen is the world's coolest antique market, period. This shot of about a million Jesus statues (shout out to David and Scott) was one of the more tame booths within the maze of amazing finds.

Sacre Couer at dusk

The beginning of what's sure to be a non-stop open mic extravagnza on the steps of the church

Le Brat Pack

2008-02-18T10:09:00.000-08:00

I traveled to Nice to interview Anthony Gonzalez, the amazing producer behind M83 (and a huge John Hughes fan--with Molly Ringwald posters to prove it). Hughes' films were among the inspirations behind Saturdays = Youth, his new album, which I wrote about for XLR8R. Here are some photos from my short stay.

Makes Me Wonder Sometimes

2008-02-14T10:15:00.000-08:00

Recent dialogue with a student while watching Style Wars in class

Student: Those guys must be rich.
Me: Why do you say that?
Student: They have all that spray paint. How much does that cost?

Random Shots

2008-02-02T09:08:00.001-08:00

Bratislava Rock City!

2008-02-02T08:58:00.001-08:00

When in Prague, stop by the Pop Museum, an excellent collection of photos and paraphernalia of Czech pop and big beat music from the '60s and '70s. Evidently, they made some crazy guitars in the Eastern Bloc.

The current exhibit focused on Slovak rock bands like the Beatmen. Nice logo.

These guys looked like the precursors to Slovak stoner rock. Heavy.

Brewery Tours

2008-01-27T07:56:00.001-08:00

Left to right: Pat, Christine, Nick, Dan and Rebecca

On a Saturday afternoon, this intrepid crew embarked on a serious Czech cultural exchange, a series of brewery tours. We started at St. Norbert's Monastery Brewery, which cleverly made us eat lunch (and therefore drink) before going on the tour.

Three liters of happiness. This massive mug contained St. Norbert's amber, one of my favorite beers in Prague.

The bottling center of St. Norbert's, which produces a staggering two bottles a minute .

After St. Norbert's, we went to Andel and the massive Staropramen brewery, the biggest in the city. During the tour, we discovered a photo that showed that Staropramen is shipped out of the factory in cans, bottles, kegs and what looked like tanker trucks. Yes, Czechs really like their beer.

New Year's Eve

2008-01-22T03:08:00.000-08:00

Since many friends went home for the holidays, we didn't have big plans for New Year's Eve (yes, it is a convenient excuse). But our random stroll through the city ended up being exciting. It started with fireworks in Wenceslas Square, perhaps the most up close and personal fireworks display I've seen. Click here to see what hundreds of drunk pyromaniacs can do. After that, we wandered around, visited some bars, and on the tram ride home, befriended a group of French tourists who invited us back to their place for food and champagne. They swore they were from the Champagne region of France, and who were we to doubt them? Whatever they were pouring was certainly a step up from Bohemia sekt.

Vienna and Christmas

2008-01-21T09:43:00.000-08:00

Our holiday season started with a trip to Vienna, where we met Mary and John for a very fun and relaxing weekend. After enjoying the splendor and comfort of the unheated Holosovice train station, we had a few drinks on the train ride to Austria.

St. Stephen's Cathedral, a massive Gothic building and national symbol of Austria, in Stephensplatz in central Vienna.

Vienna definitely is the city of music, at least in terms of historical sites and attractions. The top shot is of the Musikverein, one of the premier concert venues in the city and the world. The annual New Year's day concert, when the interior is decorated with flowers, is broadcast around the world. Below is the Haus Der Musik, a wacky but cool interactive sound museum (or klangmuseum in Deutsch).

A sign that greeted us upon our arrival in Vienna. Who could pass up a chance to see Woody Allen? It proved to be dramatic foreshadowing.

Don't remember the name of this dish, but the waiter warned us that we better be hungry. I think it contained about four kinds of schnitzel.

The big attraction during the season in the Christkindlmarkt in front of the Rathaus. It's a massive festival of lights, gifts and plenty of hot wine.

The last night of out stay in Vienna we ate dinner in area called Heuriger, a wine-growing region on the edge the city. It was fantastic, a whole neighborhood of small restaurants and pubs serving Austrian food and wine. There was a polka-style band playing in front of us, and we both got a kick out of the band and a woman seated near us, who was dancing like she was having the time of her life.

We spent an afternoon touring all the city's amazing art museums. Adding to the charm was this odd, igloo-like structure in a courtyard between a few of the buildings, which contained a few bars and a DJ booth. Nice way to support the arts.

This sculpture was on the side of MUMOK, the modern art museum and the site of a few fantastic exhibits on modern Chinese art and the Fluxus movement. As we left the museum, we actually ran into who else but Woody Allen! We were a bit too flummoxed to collect ourselves and say hi -- by we I mean Pat -- but it was definitely him.

We spent a lot of time on the trams in Vienna. Notice the very progressive policy of having reserved seating for cat people.

Another highlight was kaffe and kuchen. Above are two classic Viennese delights, apfelstrudel and sacretorte.

On Christmas eve, we took a train back to Prague. We spent Christmas eve at a pub and enjoyed Czech food -- didn't have the heart to try the carp. Christmas night, Christine and Pat cooked dinner at our apartment, which included Grammy Sisson's famous potato pancakes. Above is our Charlie Brown-like Christmas tree. Mark Sisson was slightly ashamed at his son's sub-par lighting job.

A photo of Old Town Square on Christmas Eve.

Finally a group shot. Here are all of us enjoying pre-dinner drinks at Le Palais.

Requisite Tine glamor shot.

A photo of the ceiling at Cafe Savoy, where we had dinner the day after Christmas. According to the waiter, the owners covered up the ceiling during the Communist era to protect it from being destroyed.

The display window of the fabulous Artel store.

We spent a good deal of time exploring the castle complex in Hradcanska. Note to future visitors... plan to spend a lot of time up here. Above is a photo of St. Vitus Cathedral.

A picture of Wenceslas Square.

A view of the crowds at the castle complex.

Behind the castle is a small street called Golden Lane, filled with small little cottages and gift shops.

There was an old weapons store in the Golden Lane which (of course) had a crossbow range. Pat attempted to showoff, but failed to make any direct hits (or really any hits at all). The Czech guy operating the stand said something about me not being able to protect Christine. Funny.

Nobody Puts Bunny in the Corner

2007-12-20T13:38:00.001-08:00

A sighting of the elusive Playboy bunny at the Kolbenova flea market one Saturday morning. In a muddy lot filled with other people's junk--antique knives, creepy doll heads, porn DVDs, Czech tarot cards and assorted household products--this was one of the few treasures we (miraculously) passed up.

Company Christmas

2007-12-20T13:09:00.000-08:00

Christine's company Christmas party entailed an exquisite dinner in an old wine cellar.

Christine and Ashley, all blurry

Sarah, raised eyebrow and all

The whole gang

The setting

Twins in plaid

Hijinx in the elevator, later that night

Prague Holiday

2007-12-20T13:00:00.000-08:00

Tis the season for the annual carp slaughter! Czechs celebrate Christmas on December 24th with a large meal of carp, which is usually procured from a street vendor hawking fish in the freezing cold. Slimy carp slither around open tanks, waiting to be pulled out, clubbed with a hammer and then sliced up. The meal is followed by the opening of presents (delivered by Baby Jesus) and a series of fortune telling traditions, including melting lead coins, pouring the molten discs into water and divining the future from the shape of the cooling metal.

But don't worry, it's still the season of shopping and over-consumption.

Another excellent tradition is Mikulas, the Czech version of St. Nicholas' Day. During the evening kinky costumed threesomes consisting of the devil, St. Nick (who looks like a pope) and an angel roam around Prague, looking for little kids. They ask children if they have been well behaved -- the devil threatens to toss any problem children into his sack (i.e. Hell) -- and hand out chocolate, oranges and potatoes. No wonder children are so well-behaved here -- eternal damnation isn't an idle threat. The evening ends up being a cross between Halloween and Christmas.

Old Town Square

Pat and Ryan's ill-fated attempt at improvising a new Christmas song at Ashley's long-anticipated "Old-Fashioned Piano" party.

The Other Castle

2007-12-20T12:50:00.001-08:00

South of our apartment, opposite a valley, lies Vysehrad, a 10th-century castle and a cathedral with a massive, modernist cemetery.

Before that, Pat needed a bit of playtime.

Gratuitous Animal Photos

2007-12-20T12:40:00.000-08:00

Hedgehogs are apparently quite common here. (I learned later that he made a spiny soccer ball for our classmate Paul.)

Meet Priscilla, a taxidermy crane (from Africa via Paris).

Lublanska street's resident watchdog

Izzie, one of two company dogs at Tine's office.

Cat from a party. (I just liked the picture.)

Things To Be Thankful For

2007-12-18T13:51:00.001-08:00

This Thanksgiving weekend was atypical, but we still had a lot to be thankful for:

1) Our party, where Mara managed to come in a fully-accessorized neck brace. Plus, the weird turkey-flavored meat we served that night went over well.

2) Rachel and Ashley (pictured here at an actual turkey dinner we went to, another thing we were thankful for).

3) The seemingly random prevalence of "Dirty Dancing" references everywhere we go in Prague. (Here are some dinner guests recreating "the lift")

4) Czech fashion shows (yes, they have them)

Baby Went to Amsterdam

2007-12-18T13:30:00.000-08:00

What better weekend than that of Pat's 27th birthday to revel in a city that celebrates youth and indulgence?

Case in point

Christine was easily charmed by the quaint canal houses.

Our hotel, Qbic, was (how shall we say?) different. High on design, low on space but completely comfortable and not without its quirks. Above, Pat leaves his mark on the hotel's only 24-hour staff.

Pat is very proud of this picture, taken at the House of Bols--a museum dedicated to the Dutch distillery and one of our favorite attractions in Amsterdam. This room -- filled with dozens of eclectic liquer scents-- was one of many stops in the Willy Wonka-esque tour. It ended with an open bar and shots of genever, a Dutch spirit, and Christine's personal lesson in "flairtending." She's already better than Tom Cruise in Cocktail.

A buffet of Bols liquers

Pat trying the public outdoor urinals. When in Rome (and slightly drunk)...

Mystery sign outside a fantastic frittes place

Pat in the cube that was our hotel room

Amsterdam is the most bike-friendly city we've seen. People were peddling in freezing rain, cycling with cell phones and even holding umbrellas while riding.

Sculpture for World AIDS Day outside the Van Gogh museum

Bohemian Rhapsody

2007-12-18T13:17:00.000-08:00

A trip to the countryside (and to a real-life village!) gave Christine a glimpse into the art of glass-blowing.

Open for Business

2007-12-18T13:06:00.000-08:00

Photos from the store launch party (and after party)

Vintage Jawa (Czech motorcycle)

Dog suitcase: It's not taxidermy, but it does boast real "recycled" dog fur!

Sarah makes her acceptance speech

London Calling

2007-12-16T13:00:00.000-08:00

Three days wasn't enough time to get used to the whole driving on the left side of the road concept. But it was enough time to become obsessed with all the city had to offer (most of which we couldn't afford). The Tate Modern, Fabric (Michael Mayer Live!) and Geary's Fish & Chips were brilliant.

View of the Thames from the Tate

England's equivalent of Memorial Day occurred during our visit, which gave us plenty of chances to see parades and people wearing silly hats

Christine in the courtyard of the Victoria and Albert Museum, where she saw the Golden Age of Couture exhibit, which made her inner-fashionista go insane.

The store that made Pat go insane.

More collectible (and expensive) social critiques from Shepard Fairley's newest exhibition.

Johnny Rotten in 2007. Pat was assigned to cover the concert. Insert easy punchline about aging rockers here.

Blowup

2007-12-16T12:33:00.000-08:00

Christine's snapshots from a day spent aimlessly wandering the city while Pat was in Berlin:

Pumpkin Time

2007-12-16T12:24:00.001-08:00

Notice the pumpkin is sporting a triple-brow? It's an homage to Christine's triple-brow... long story involving fainting at a party, but thankfully she's recovered from partial eyebrow loss and leads a full, satisfying life.

A Walk in Fall

2007-12-16T12:10:00.000-08:00

A fall day in Hradcany, the Castle district

I'm With the Band

2007-12-16T12:03:00.001-08:00

There was a week when it seemed like I went to a concert every other night. I don't really remember much of the music (all Czech), but it was always interesting--including the night where we befriended the band (again, don't remember the name). Turns out this is actually a regular occurrence in Prague.

Ashley chats with the greasy Italian rocker

We took way too many photos that night. These were the least embarrassing ones.

Cat Milk

2007-12-16T11:58:00.000-08:00

I’ll admit it. I purchased a liter of cat milk. Not just milk with a cat on the label, or cat brand milk, but literally sour milk meant for cats. Next time you have the pleasure of strolling down a Czech dairy aisle (close to the slightly less incomprehensible meat section and the tanks of live carp), you’ll understand my Czech-language lactose ignorance. I’ve lived in Prague for a few months, and I still play a guessing game (will this smell like a bag of gym towels?) every time I open a newly-purchased liter of milk. I have no idea what the language on the cartons mean, and most of the time, I end up popping open sour milk, which is customary here in the CR. This particular time, a bottle with cute kittens on the label called to me. Nothing this cute can smell bad, I reasoned. But like any darling little baby that eventually needs changing, this bottle exhibited one potent aroma.

David (and Pat's duck)

2007-12-16T11:54:00.001-08:00

Before you scroll down to view the photos below, a little briefing on the events that preceded our arrival at the shamelessly cheesy Nebe.

Pat's cousin David came for a visit in October via London, bearing a bottle of gin. Our first real visitor! After showing him the sights, we settled on dinner at a traditional Czech pub. No time to get into the intricacies of the local cuisine. Suffice it to say, it is hearty, portions are enormous and there any many mystery meats (if you're curious, look up pork brawn). Pat ordered duck--nothing too daunting there--and made it about 3/4 through his entree before noticing an old woman (not a server) walking curiously back and forth past our table, her hungry eyes set upon the carcass on his plate. She approached us and gestured toward his plate, starting an impromptu charades game.

"Quack."

She finally made her intentions clear. Taken aback (really, what does one do in the situation?), Pat offered up the remains of the meal to the woman, who shoved it into her Tesco bag and walked away. We were stunned of course, but humored, too.

Several beers (and several bars) later, we landed at Nebe, the aforementioned emporium of awesomely bad music. And here we are (photo 1: Pat and Tine making their characteristic drunk faces; photo 2: David appearing to kiss Christine's eye).

Faces, faces everywhere

2007-12-13T13:20:00.000-08:00

Architecture in Prague: You're always being watched.

More Fun With Photos

2007-12-13T12:58:00.000-08:00

Christine's hiatus between TEFL and her job gave her plenty of time to simply wander.
She honed her photography skills at the gardens beneath the castle.

Cubism Et Al

2007-12-10T13:48:00.001-08:00

Christine paid a visit to the House of the Black Madonna, a striking building that is home to the Museum of Cubism.

I was a fan of the staircase

Back in the square, I ran into Anne Lisak. Shortly thereafter we were encountered these football hooligans from Denmark, who were all too enthusiastic about posing for a photo.

Impressive feats of architecture, everywhere you look

Un-American Graffiti

2007-12-10T13:09:00.000-08:00

Yes, it is everywhere. (But here are some of the better examples.)

Day At Letna

2007-12-10T12:48:00.001-08:00

Having covered most of the city center, we ventured north on a warm day to Letna Park, former home of a Stalin monument, now home of beer gardens, great views of the city and skaters.

Pat's fancy camera work (read: different color settings) captured this bridge statue en route to Lenta park.

Christine held that handstand for 15 minutes.

Stalin's replacement, a large red metronome

glamourpuss

And the guy with a plastic cup of beer beside her

Click here for a nice postcard view of Prague

Trying to avoid the paparazzi

Critical Mass

2007-12-09T11:57:00.000-08:00

The spectacle of Critical Mass in Prague seemed both appropriate and inappropriate. For one, the crowd of cyclists that gathered in Old Town Square didn’t slow traffic any more than the usual rubbernecking flocks of tourists. Then again, the prospect of riding through a city of cobblestones, street trams and swerving drivers didn’t seem too appealing. The bikers still came in droves.

Pat checking out the view from the top of the Astronomical Clock

Sights That Make Christine Happy

2007-12-09T11:35:00.000-08:00

Another sunny Saturday, another stroll without an agenda.

I wandered into a palace outside the castle and stumbled on a great architecture exhibit. This sculpture was in the courtyard.

Terra cotta-colored rooftops

Fantastic deck with seemingly random chairs

Shady path in Letna Park

A street without people--a rarity!

View of the National Theater

Sunbathers, after a thus-far chilly late summer

Alleys with unexpected results

The Vltava River and its bridges

A restaurant high atop Letna Park

Petrin Hill

2007-12-09T10:49:00.001-08:00

Petrin Park is located on the west side of Prague, on a hill accessible by a funicular. Its main attractions are park, gardens and a miniature Eiffel Tower, known as the Petřínská rozhledna.

Based on the way it swayed in the light breeze as we walked up to the viewing gallery, I’d say it isn’t an exact replica. In a strong wind it might be more like a ride. But, it still offered some great views.

Here's a shot of the funicular track, along with photos of the rose garden.

Prague Castle: 5-Cent Tour

2007-12-09T10:31:00.000-08:00

Admittedly, this is kind of the thing to do in Prague--and therefore the most crowded attraction in Prague. That didn't deter me from taking a little tour (I say tour, but I pretty much just made a loop around the enormous compound, snapping pictures along the way).

The steep climb up

Not the castle, but the square outside

St. Vitus Cathedral: truly amazing

Another view

We returned to this spot for a picnic some weeks later

It's Burcak Season

2007-12-09T08:50:00.001-08:00

Our apartment is near Namesti Miru, a metro stop underneath the Church of Saint Ludmilla (who was strangled to death with her veil by two assassins... who says Catholicism isn't exciting?).
Anyway, we took these photos one Friday afternoon at a fall harvest festival. We saw some Moravian dancers and made some important discoveries:
1. Trdlo
A delicious round pastry that takes a long time to make, but is worth the wait.
2. Burcak
A young Moravian wine, with a slight apple or fruit taste, only available (as far as we know) in the fall. It's sold at stands and at bars for a few weeks, often dispensed in empty plastic water bottles, and is delicious.

Moving On Up

2007-12-09T08:19:00.000-08:00

Home, sweet home.

The living room, with its one-of-a-kind IKEA decor.

Cherry-red kitchen of the future!

Alva is a members'-only club at the corner of our street. A complete mystery, since we don’t have the balls to walk in not speaking Czech. It’s busy every night, and a few times a week you can hear folk music coming out of the basement. When we have a drink at Alva we’ll know that we’ve arrived.

Colorful, Mid-Century-Mod-style Kaaba is among the departures from the dark, dank cellar style of many bars--and thus a favorite.

Riegrovy Sady, the neighborhood park. Once a former vineyard, it is now home to a great beer garden and some fantastic city views (see below).

Another notable stop (not pictured):
Beljicka Internet Café – a smelly, dank dungeon of internet access we’ve been trudging to ever since moving in (can’t wait to get wireless installed at home). It’s run by a washed-up soccer player who hit on Christine (“Darling, just look at the wealth I command as owner of this shithole where foreigners check their email”) and offers plenty of cheap drinks, sports betting and a constant stream of Fergie’s mind-numbing “Big Girl Now.”

Hot for Teachers

2007-12-08T13:36:00.000-08:00

Perhaps the most unexpected TEFL night was the evening after graduation, where the foreign crew remaining in Prague (Leslie, Mara, Evan, Mark, Christine and Patrick) went on a boat cruise on the river Vltava to celebrate our classmate Vera’s wedding. To be fair, the previous night, where Paul was offering up generous sips of Fernet during our bus trip to the Metro, had its charms. We cruised the river eating Czech barbecue cooked on the top deck, drinking copious amounts of wine and beer. The night was memorable for a few reasons. Evan became “slightly” intoxicated and had to be reminded that the boat had docked (he thought it was still moving) and, of course, the band.

This was the Prague version of the wedding singer -- a man playing keyboard and a female vocalist. They did Czech language covers of favorites like “Killing Me Softly."

Christine and Laura eventually convinced/forced them to allow some karaoke. They gals stole the show, but sadly, the keyboard player only had sheet music for lyrics, and spotty sheet music at that. Christine and Laura definitely thought they knew more of “La Isla Bonita” than they actually did. But still, it was a defining performance, sure to be highlighted in the wedding album.

Our aforementioned TEFL teachers, Laura and Corina.

Graduation Day

2007-12-08T13:34:00.001-08:00

Schools out! Evan, Andre and Pat walk home from Prague Schools for the last time.

Cross Club

2007-12-08T13:30:00.001-08:00

A post-industrial party space in Holesovice, Cross Club is a maze of metal, some kind of Trent Reznor video come to life. Kinetic sculptures fashioned from a junkyard worth of scrap blink and swirl overhead, spot-welded into an ivy-like tangle of bars, loose gears and glass bulbs. Fittingly, the booking policy leans toward drum n bass.

Frankfurt

2007-12-08T13:18:00.000-08:00

I had only been in Prague for two weeks when I left to cover Tendence Lifestyle in Frankfurt. I spent the day taking in design (some hits, some misses) and eating pretzels and sausage. I wasn't supposed to take this picture--snapped in the light-filled Galleria--but I'm glad I did.

TEFL on the TOWN

2007-12-08T12:21:00.000-08:00

Navigating Prague with a pack of 22-year-olds had a way of bringing us right back to freshman year of college. We were all a bit clueless, wandering around and occasionally flashing a guidebook, but it was fun, even if we were the old married couple. A partial cast of characters, in no particular order:

Left to right: Andre looking for the beat, and Steve Buscemi (Evan) in a rare moment of reflection

Left to right: Freya and the Green Fairy and Mara proposing a stopover drink

Left to right: Paul and Georgie and Tess and Marie

And the boring married couple...

Christine, at Roxy, trying to keep up with the young'ns. She's still got it!

Some of the gang at Chateau. We thought this ex-pat bar was a one-time stop (little did we know we'd return again... and again...)

Fellow TEFL-er Andre got a visit from his girlfriend, Reelz. Here they are striking an adorable pose on the Metro.

First Impressions

2007-12-08T12:10:00.000-08:00

The first of what is sure to be dozens of photos of the ubiquitous Old Town Square, most visitors' first stop in the city. It's surrounded by churches and cobblestone drives and contains a statue of Jan Hus (a Czech hero, Protestant thinker and forefather of the Reformation who was burned at the stake). In this photo, the statue is being restored, temporarily covered in an ad for the Czech car company Skoda (which translates to "pity").

The other tourist favorite, and rightfully so, is Charles Bridge, a 14th-century stone landmark spanning the River Vltava. It's flanked by two towers and decorated with 30 Baroque statues. It's usually jammed with tourist traffic, photographers and merchants. A long-term bridge renovation project started a month after we arrived, so we're lucky to have seen the complete bridge.

We ate at this restaurant, located under the west end of the bridge, during one of our first nights here. Touristy, perhaps, but it's hard to resist a nearly 700-year-old candlelit restaurant.

A excellent Spanish restaurant in Mala Strana where we spent a lot of early nights eating paella and taking advantage of free wi-fi.

Examples of a public sculpture project that was in town when we arrived.

Viva la Villa Rosa

2007-12-08T11:57:00.000-08:00

After a very late night at a Versailles club (in what seemed like a centuries old cave—but was “modernized” with VIP rooms in the wine cellars and ‘70s and ‘80s disco tunes on the stereo), we struggled to make our flight to Prague. Our arrival was a bit surreal, complete with crazy cabbie.

Our accommodations can only be described as quirky. Our incredibly friendly landlady had an extreme penchant for old clocks, which lined the staircases, walls, everything. Our shower and toilet were also combined into one small, sauna-like room, a less-than ideal situation for getting ready in the morning.

She also provided every tenant with a gratis pair of thick plastic slippers. It’s a Czech custom to wear house shoes, to properly let your feet breathe. Towards the end of our stay, we moved on up to the attic/Czech penthouse in the sky. Better view, same bathroom.

Original Bedroom

Original Kitchen

Attic Window

Attic Bed

Paris in Pictures, part two

2007-11-04T12:09:00.001-08:00

Who doesn’t love a little room service from time to time? This morning we began our love affair with real hot chocolate with cream.

Another overcast, though no less beautiful, day

Around mid-day, we stopped at the famed Angelina for sugar re-fuel: African hot chocolate with crème, brie, port and the most perfect pastry we'd ever experienced. Heaven.

See how dapper and satisfied Pat looks?

Collette: the epicenter of the hip Paris shopping—and a place where both of us could drool over design (me: couture; Pat: books, music and gadgets). We could only afford the bottled water.

You can leave it behind, but American culture follows.

We ventured to both the well-trodden and less-visited parts of Paris, but found iconic images everywhere.

We accidentally landed at Christian Constant (the Michelin chef) for a memorable dinner. The Eiffel Tower was right in view when we left.

Lit up—but without the strobe-light effect.

Au revoir!

Paris in Pictures, part one

2007-11-04T10:05:00.000-08:00

The lovely Seine

The air was uncharacteristically brisk for August, and filled with clouds. We bundled up and set out to walk to the city.

We got our bearings at the Arc de Triomphe, after a stop off at Laduree for some heavenly sweets. At Palace Tokyo—after perusing Black Block inside—we lingered to watch these skateboarders.

Urban art juxtaposed with classical architecture makes for an intriguing photo, if nothing else.

Christine at Jardin des Tuileries

Pat's impressive camera-work captured this colorful carousel horse

Always good to have your camera ready, in case an impromptu dance performance should commence.

En route to Notre Dame. Interestingly, our visit to the Cathedral coincided with the funeral of Cardinal Jean-Marie Lustiger.

Yes, that's Pat next to the red Vespa. Exhaustion finally caught up with us as we searched for food in the Latin Quarter. We actually left the restaurant we had decided on, lured by quick crepes at this stand. (Really, what is better than the simplicity of ham and cheese on a glorified pancake?) Even after getting our fill, we couldn't resist the falafel sandwiches ("the best or [our] money back"), courtesy of Kiki Mimi. We will definitely be back.

What..?! Oh no. We were so tired, we got off at the wrong stop: the legendary Porchefontaine. The 30 minutes of waiting for the next train were unbearable. Little did we know that we could have walked just a few short blocks to our hotel. C'est la vie, as they say. High-thread-count sheets and a new day await.

Fairer Skies

2007-11-04T09:57:00.000-08:00

Another long wait at O’Hare, but we finally made it off safely. Paris driving was another story. Tackling our first rotary and royally screwing up, we were met with the wrath of an angry French man who signaled to us to pull over, then complained about our horrible driving. “I have two BAY-bies," he yelled at us, " Don’t hurt my BAY-bies.”

The beauty of Versailles was a calming antidote to the harrowing drive.

I loved the symmetry of these trees on the path to our hotel.

Our hotel, The Trianon

Greeted with our first French meal: good coffee, delicious bread, ham and cheese

Detour

2007-11-04T09:38:00.001-08:00

Two tickets to paradise, indeed.

Canceled flight. Heavy baggage. Humid day.

We are sitting at a pseudo-seedy hotel bar, drinking cheap wine and reading USA Today. It’s as if the country—sensing we were leaving—wanted to hold us back, show us its worst parts.

On our way here, we passed a Plasma center in a strip mall. And it wasn’t selling TVs.
The hotel, the Chicago Hillside Inn, is a vestige of its former self (a Holiday Inn off a rancid-smelling interstate). The hotel sign has been covered and has yet to be re-lettered, and the establishment itself all-too-eagerly shows its cracks and flaws: a bug crawling on the bedspread; the creepy room (# 230) next door.

Procrastination

2007-11-04T09:30:00.000-08:00

Prague, in sepia

Pat: Three months in, and we've settled on a Bill Cosby reference. This will only get better.

Christine: You know what they say: better late than never. So we'll start at the beginning, in Paris. But first..